WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF

You never get used to the Northern Lights

SLF PhD student Pia Ruttner spent six months in the Westfjords of Iceland, observing avalanches with a laser scanner. In her logbook blog, she recounts her incomplete collection of memories and learnings.

I got the chance to spend 6 months with the avalanche and landslide research group of Iceland, which is part of the Icelandic Meteorological Office and located in Ísafjörður, in the Westfjords. If you are working with wind drifted snow, avalanches and road safety, this is the place to be.

There is no question where the avalanche paths are, the question is rather which one is coming. With the flat mountain tops, wind direction and wind speed are the most important parameters in the assessment of avalanche danger.

A panoramic view of a coastal town nestled beside a calm bay, surrounded by lush greenery and a steep mountain range in the background. The sky is partially cloudy, adding depth to the serene landscape.
North side of Ísafjörður, with one of the avalanche protection dams. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

Although you know you will miss daylight and the sun in winter, during the summer months you sometimes wish for at least some hours of proper night.

A person stands on rocky terrain by a calm body of water, facing a serene sunset. The mountains create a backdrop against the evening sky, which features soft hues of orange and pink, reflecting tranquility in the atmosphere.
Outside the student housing, picture taken at around 23:30. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

Summer and autumn are for fieldwork, for example updating sensors of snow measurement stations.

A hiker in a yellow jacket ascends a steep, rocky slope with lush green terrain. In the background, a fjord and a small village are visible beneath a cloudy sky, emphasizing the vastness of the landscape.
On the way to change a sensor above Súðavikurhlið. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

There is a reason why most tourists travel the south coast of Iceland, the nature is incredible.

The SNOW2025 conference was held in Ísafjörður at the end of September, marking 30 years since the catastrophic avalanches in 1995 in Súðavík (January) and Flateyri (October), which together claimed more than 30 lives. It was the starting point of organized avalanche warning and hazard zoning in Iceland. With the conference came some visitors from SLF, it was a pleasure to show and explore my temporary home and surroundings!

Three hikers pose for a selfie outdoors, with mountains and a valley in the background. The group is smiling, dressed in outdoor gear, and the light of a sunset is visible, adding warmth to the scene.
In the valley of Kaldalón, on the way to Drangajökull, the largest glacier of the Westfjords. From left to right: Michael Kohler, Pia Ruttner, Julia Glaus. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

It is not allowed to leave sheep out in the wild for winter, as land owner you are responsible to collect all of them in autumn, volunteers welcome.

A scenic landscape features a vast, open valley with some sparse vegetation and distant mountains. In the foreground, two figures are guiding a small group of sheep across the terrain, with a calm body of water visible in the background under a cloudy sky.
Sheep gathering at Dynjandisheiði. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

Yes, you do need spike-tires on your car in the Westfjords in winter, and why do my shoes not have any?

A nighttime scene of a quiet, snowy street. Streetlights illuminate the road, which shows tracks from vehicles. On the right, there is a church and several buildings, while the grassy area on the side contrasts with the white snow covering the road.
Outside the student housing, it would have been safer to use ice skates on the way to work. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

We selected two avalanche paths to monitor the snow depths throughout the winter with a high end, long-range terrestrial laser scanner. We want to take measurements in an interval of two weeks, and more often in case of snow and wind events. The snow depths are exceptionally low this winter, but with the influence of wind and melt-freeze cycles we already measured 3 meters and more in parts of our monitored areas.

Have a look at the scans here:

A surveying instrument is positioned on a tripod in a snowy landscape, with a river and rocky terrain in the background. The scene features mountains rising on either side and a clear sky, indicating early morning or late afternoon light.
One of the laserscanning spots, at the end of the fjord of Ísafjörður. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

If there is snow outside you have to go out immediately if you want to enjoy a little bit of skiing (after the snowstorm calmed down) – it can be gone the next day.

Two individuals are cross-country skiing across a vast, snow-covered landscape. The scene is set against a backdrop of distant mountains under a clear sky, suggesting a peaceful winter day.
Rare occasion (for this winter) of skiing in Seljalandsdalur. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

Same is true for sunny-days (although, there is no sun in Ísafjörður from mid-November to end of January, so this counts for clear-sky days as well).

Take wind warnings seriously and rethink if you really need to travel on that day.

You never get used to the Northern Lights, luckily I can watch them from the warmth of my room in the student housing.

A vibrant display of the northern lights illuminates the night sky, featuring shades of green and purple. The aurora borealis cascades vertically above a dark landscape with distant hills and a calm body of water reflecting the multicolored lights.
View out of my room of the student housing. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

On one of the last weekends here I went on a trip to the north of Iceland, Tröllaskagi, to chase a bit of snow and the sun for some skiing. It was a long drive from the Westjords, but totally worth it!

A skier stands on a snow-covered slope, using ski poles for support. The background features a vast landscape with mountains and a serene lake under a clear blue sky. The scene conveys an adventurous winter atmosphere.
Skiing in Karlsárdalur, next to Dalvík, on the Tröllaskagi peninsula in the north of Iceland. (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

With that, I was able to use all the equipment that I brought with me, time to go home.

A pair of feet in colorful socks rests on a rocky ledge, overlooking a vast valley. The landscape features green hills, a winding river, and a small settlement nestled in the distance, under a partly cloudy sky.
Paragliding in Engidalur, towards Ísafjörður (picture taken at 20:45!). (Photo: Pia Ruttner)

My deepest thanks and gratitude go to the IMO avalanche group in Ísafjörður, who welcomed me warmly into their office and made these months an unforgettable experience! Many thanks also to SNF, who awarded me the mobility grant that made this research stay possible.

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